2012 COLLECTIONS

– Stella McCartney spring-

stella mccartney 2011 spring summer Stella McCartney Spring / Summer 2011 collection

The Stella McCartney spring / summer 2011 collection, a collection inspired by menswear tailoring, made its debut at Paris Fashion Week the other day.

Like many of the other high street fashion brands present at this year’s show, Stella McCartney presented garments with masculine and feminine traits.

Among the many people to attend the Stella McCartney spring/summer 2011 showcase was American singer-songwriter Beth Ditto. Overall it was a great turn out

Hermes

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Decked out in a horseback riding theme, models fitted in Hermes garnets unveiled the high street brand’s 2011 spring / summer collection.

The stage was covered in dirt, models sported braided ponytails–it was literally a stable. Horses and their riders set the mood as they slowly made their way around.

After Hermes’ intro, guitars pumped sound-waves of Spanish music as models took to the runway. Out came the masculine line first, consisting of big brim hats, and plenty of long, flowing dresses. Next was a series of pieces made from leather, such as skirts, harnesses, high waist trousers.

A big sayonara to Jean Paul Gaultier, who served Hermes for 7 years, concluded Hermes 2011 spring / summer collection 2011 at Paris Fashion Week.

It’s Christophe Lemaire’s second season holding the reins at Hermès, and his spring collection, while still approaching the level of truly timeless, instant heirloom pieces that Hermès traditionalists and the fashion-forward obsess over in equal measure, was certainly an improvement over fall’s somewhat misguided styling effort. Lemaire said his goal was to create clothes with ease, and so there were wide, cropped pants woven of the finest linen, a luxurious-looking taupe sweater with a chunky rib, and a big barn jacket that made you curse Paris’s unseasonable heat (for the millionth time this week) because, if you could get your hands on it, it’d be a kind of cool take on fall’s utility trend.

There weren’t many accessories, especially for a house built on bags, watches, and scarves, but Lemaire said that’s because he subscribes to the idea that less is more. But in this case, based on the strength of the pieces he did show, it may have served him well to send out more. Two new styles caught the eye: one, a small, structured satchel worn across the body (which for Hermès feels particularly young and fresh), and two, a dark leather bag with a gold frame that seemed as much about form as it was about function. There were also a lot of high-polished silver collars and bangles that lent a desert vibe to the relaxed clothes. “There is this nomadic feeling,” said Lemaire about his collection. “You don’t really know if you are in Mexico, Greece, Africa. It doesn’t really matter; it’s all about traveling in the mind. Hermès is very much about beauty and quality from everywhere.”

There’s nothing wrong with a global mindset these days—who isn’t thinking that way?—but Lemaire should remember that, while, yes, as he said, Hermès is very much about beauty and quality, but it’s also very much about France. It will be important for him to figure out how he wants to interpret and honor that Parisian definition of quality, sophistication, and style.

by Emily Holt

Perhaps what the fashion cognoscenti yearn for most from Hermѐs is no fashion at all. To stand apart, as this house always has done, as a touchstone of all super-refined, super-classic Frenchness, there is a sense in which the forces of good taste will it to do nothing at all except continue to be the only house in Paris which one can linger over the quality—even the staidness—of its everlasting leather goods, horsey accessories, watches, and unique printed scarves.

So now that Christophe Lemaire, a French designer with no great cachet in terms of widespread international name-recognition, has joined the house to replace the high jinks instituted for several years by Jean Paul Gaultier, the audience was curious to see if and how the strategy had changed. The outcome, viewed in a show held in the new Hermѐs store on the rue de Sèvres, was puzzling. Lemaire, who has his own collection which veers toward the minimal-Asian tendency of Western design, staged a debut which, with its big-shouldered robes, leather caps, and pants fused into boots (bants? poots?), not to mention the fact that one model was carrying an eagle on her arm (alive) and another had a bow and quiver slung about her person, almost appeared to be channelling the spirit of Claude Montana, eighties-style.

It is not fair, of course, to instantly judge any designer who is called to take on the yoke of such a storied house. Acclimatization to such a refined culture—and the expectations which rest on it—is always going to take longer than one season. And in several brief sections of this collection, there were glimpses of the pared-down, effortless classicism both Hermѐs traditionalists and Hermѐs fashion-cultists fervently cherish. That came about when Lemaire chose to ditch extraneous accessories and simply show a sand-colored suede tunic over leggings, or a narrow coat in forest-green leather over matching skinny trousers. With these, he zeroed in on a graceful compromise between the unchanging templates of the ineffable haute-bourgeois civilization represented by Hermѐs, and the silhouettes the denizens of planet fashion are considering to be really quite advanced this season.

by Sarah Mower

-Jason Wu Spring 2012-

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New York Fashion Week has already begun and designers have started showcasing their best designs for all the world to see. First up in this side of the blogosphere is Jason Wu Spring 2012.

If Jason Wu were to be the signal for the upcoming Spring 2012 collections, then expect a lot of muted palettes set against one daring color. Wu claims that this season’s designs were heavily inspired by pop artist Kaws. Much of the influence can be seen in the speckled prints that give way to bold hues ranging from blazing blue to canary yellow.
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Donna Karan Spring 2012

Donna Karan looks like she is starting her own trend this upcoming season with the pieces from this Donna Karan Spring 2012 collection. Donna Karan is inspiring what is called a “tribal inspired revamp” or pieces that have strong tribal patterns and designs.

Karan claims that these inspirations were drawn from her frequent trips to Haiti. These influences are evident this season as the muted neutral palettes are what’s front and center for this collection.

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Donna Karan Resort 2012 Collection

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Donna Karan Resort 2012 Collection offers line up full of structured shapes and strong, masculine accents. The feeling that one gets from this collection is that of a masculine, strong female that are soft on the edges but still stays strong and ahead of the pack.

The color palette for the Donna Karan season boasts of strong solid hues of red, white and black. While this is labeled to be under the resort line up, anything from the collection is elegant enough for any season.

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